Lookie what $5000 buys you....

Member's Projects & Restorations

  1. 1 Wild R/T

    1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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    I can't speak for other areas but around here battery powered sawzalls are allowed....

    And the chisel is way harder to use effectively, the ax/hatchet keeps your hand away from the danger zone...
     
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    • 1972GY8SE

      1972GY8SE Well-Known Member

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      That must still be the current policy at self-service yards.
      I have seen guys recently cutting panels off with a hammer and chisel.

      Had to delete the prior post . . . for some reason I clicked the quote button and messed up your statement.:realcrazy:
       
      Last edited: Nov 17, 2019
    • 1972GY8SE

      1972GY8SE Well-Known Member

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      I don't know, but a saws-all is definitely the way to go.
       
    • Kern Dog

      Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      I only used the hatchet for the extra weight. The claw hammer wasn't heavy enough. The chisel has a sharp enough point to spread the panels apart to get to the welds. THis car will get welded frame connectors and torque boxes, a fully welded K member and suspension similar to my Red car.
       
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      • 1 Wild R/T

        1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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        Well if you haven't tried it you might want to... You'll be surprised how effective it is....
         
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        • hunt2elk

          hunt2elk FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          I have found what works the best is to weld another nut to the remaining stud. The heat from the weld will help loosen up the rust. It should turn out fairly easily, but if not and your weld breaks, just weld on another nut and try again.
           
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          • Kern Dog

            Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            It works!

            68 Rail 1.jpg 68 Rail 2.jpg 68 Rail 3.jpg
             
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            • hunt2elk

              hunt2elk FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              Easy peasy, huh? A buddy showed me that trick a few years ago and I am always amazed with the results. I think back to all the time I used to spend drilling a hole in the bolt and then trying to get an easy out to work.
               
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              • Kern Dog

                Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                Yeah...I have broken off several of those "EZ Outs" over the years!
                 
              • Ceedawg

                Ceedawg Well-Known Member

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                You might want to be careful striking the hatchet with a hammer especially if both pieces are hardened. Way back in the day I was showing what not to do and sure enough a piece of the hammer broke off (size of a pencil lead) and went through my shirt and embedded in my chest, a trip to emergency room to dig it out (1/2” deep into the skin)
                 
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                • 1 Wild R/T

                  1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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                  Ax anvil is not hardened...
                   
                • Kern Dog

                  Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  I have flattened numerous hammer faces over the 32 years in construction. I don't recall any of them being hardened. I have used Titanium hammers since 2001 and have to reface them every couple of months. The grid pattern wears fast.
                  I hope to get the car in my shop in the next couple of days and start removing the bent stuff. I'll certainly go back and REread some of the advice I've received in this thread.
                   
                • eldubb440

                  eldubb440 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  I hit a hammer with a hammer years ago; a piece broke off and stuck in my knee, almost like a bullet......lesson learned
                   
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                  • Kern Dog

                    Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    And....SO it begins!
                    I pushed the car from behind my shop to the front just by myself...on foot. Man, when the entire front end is off and there is basically nothing but suspension and steering, this car is really easy to move!
                    I used the Power Wagon to push it the rest of the way into the shop.
                    XH and XP 1.jpg PW pusher.jpg XH and XP 2.jpg
                    I mocked up some sheet metal to see how stuff lines up. As ElDubb 440 was saying, the sheet metal will dictate what is square and what isn't.
                    Repair 30.jpg
                    With the fender gap at the cowl and at the fender set with paint mixing sticks as a gauge, I laid the hood loose on the car.
                    Repair 31.jpg
                    While not exactly scientific, I used another stir stick to set the hood to cowl gap. Bad news though....
                    Repair 32.jpg

                    I see a 7/8" gap where a 1/4" gap should be. This means that the left rail and apron are shifted over to the left.
                    I was able to shift the fender over to close the gap some but it has me wondering if this rail needs to be pushed back to the right. I measured the '70 Belvedere stub and the XH rail looks to be 1/8" to the right at one reference point. I don't know how close their tolerances were when new so this may be within spec. I am guessing that the substructure can be a bit out of whack but with shims, ovalling out mounting holes and some other tricks, the sheet metal can be made to fit. Obviously I'd rather that it all fell into place because I figure that if the body has to be pushed, shimmed or adjusted beyond the norm, what are the chances that I'll be able to align the front end the way I'd like?
                     
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                    • Kern Dog

                      Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                      The 1970 Belvedere and Charger core support has a different mounting pattern at the top.
                      Belvedere/Charger below:
                      Repair 24.jpg
                      THis '68 Satellite top bar is different. One hole in the center instead of two oval holes.
                      Repair 26.jpg
                      Not a problem. I have a spotweld cutter and a welder! Looks like I'm going to piece this together with a series of parts.

                      Repair 35.jpg
                       
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                      • Kern Dog

                        Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                        The front suspension and K member is out. Oddly, the K member measures out to be square. I thought that it was bent!

                        Repair 36.jpg
                        It could still be corkscrewed. I'm going to set it on wood blocks to see if it sits even at all 4 points. This is just for kicks...I have the other K member here with the sway bar in it, tabbed LCAs, etc.
                        Repair 37.jpg
                         
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                        • 1972GY8SE

                          1972GY8SE Well-Known Member

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                          You need to pull the frame on that car, its too far out for shims or elongated holes.
                          You can rig up a come-along or a cherry picker to make a pull.
                          Check this out.
                           

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                          Last edited: Nov 23, 2019
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                          • eldubb440

                            eldubb440 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                            make sure the very front fender bolt (on the inner fender) is tight. this will pull the fender in as far as it will go...... you're probably gonna need to "cross measure" a couple of things
                             
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                            • eldubb440

                              eldubb440 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                              yep..... saw it coming, we can deal with it
                               
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                              • eldubb440

                                eldubb440 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                                this is still an option
                                 
                                Last edited: Nov 23, 2019
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