• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Shop ceiling

68 HEMI GTS

Well-Known Member
Local time
11:04 AM
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
2,290
Reaction score
3,460
Location
michigan
Well I had bent back and forth between drywall, OSB, or metal panels. Ended up choosing the metal panels. One, they would save thousands of pounds hanging from the structure. Second, once they were up they were up. I didn’t have to go back and mud, tape, sand, paint, etc. So far I’m pretty happy. I’ve mostly been working by myself, and working in a full garage adds to the difficulty. I went with menards pro-rib bright white. Can’t wait to get it done, what is up looks great.

7CCFF949-C359-4468-BCD7-DFB5C2BA334B.jpeg
 
Did the same thing but with prefinished insulated 4" metal panels.. one and done and weights less than rock.
 
I’m planning on doing the same thing to mine.

not sure how finished your shop is already, had I had a clear direction of what I was doing I would have landed all the outlets in the flats. I’ll have to get creative with outlet covers and caulk on some of mine. Be the only thing I would do different.
 
I'm at that point also, in my building, on what to use for the ceiling. I was wondering, do the metal panels "sweat" when you have large temperature changes, as I don't heat my buildings full time ? I'm concerned when we have below 10* for extended times, and get the warm ups, all the metal surfaces gather the moisture, like you hosed them off. I don't want to install something that will give me trouble down the road...
 
I'm at that point also, in my building, on what to use for the ceiling. I was wondering, do the metal panels "sweat" when you have large temperature changes, as I don't heat my buildings full time ? I'm concerned when we have below 10* for extended times, and get the warm ups, all the metal surfaces gather the moisture, like you hosed them off. I don't want to install something that will give me trouble down the road...

I was concerned about sweating also. I was told by the people that made the panels that with my faced insulation I would be fine. I also keep mine heated though. I have R38 in the ceiling and plan on putting up 6 ceiling fans to keep air circulation,
 
My ceiling is virgin at this point.
The only obstruction will be my overhead door tracks.
I plan on insulating and heating my building at some point.
One option is to hang the metal ceiling and then blow in insulation.
not sure how finished your shop is already, had I had a clear direction of what I was doing I would have landed all the outlets in the flats. I’ll have to get creative with outlet covers and caulk on some of mine. Be the only thing I would do different.
 
I was concerned about sweating also.

We did a large commercial building for a landscaping outfit years ago (HVAC and plumb) The barn was mostly open with a loft, maybe 100x200. One area was set-up for wash/rinse of equipment and trucks within the building. The vent plan to prevent condensation issues was simply cross ventilate, with a 24" square intake at one corner, up high, and a slow moving fan blowing out kitty-corner as far away as possible, still mounted up high. Fan motor set to run on a Humidistat. Surprisingly did not empty the building of heat, but does well for the humidity. Heat was conventional HVAC with AC for locker/break area and overhead tube heaters for the open shop.
 
Same here. Looks so clean and brightened the place up so much. Didn't hurt that my son works at a the metal fab plant where ceiling and side panels are bent to shape. Plus your right. Relatively easy to work with if you know how to run a grinder and measuring tape. As you can see by the rad. No sweating problems.

IMG_2014 (1).JPG 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000shop.JPG
 
Last edited:
not sure how finished your shop is already, had I had a clear direction of what I was doing I would have landed all the outlets in the flats. I’ll have to get creative with outlet covers and caulk on some of mine. Be the only thing I would do different.
I moved my outlets and switches so that they would land on the flats. Kind of a pain in the butt. But it's done now and I think turned out sweet. I tried to make everything looked trimmed and finished out. Right down to the wires for the door openers and the remote switches next to the man door.
 
Last edited:
Questions:
Are these panels specifically interior?
I don't recall seeing them anywhere in my area.

Couldn't one run the electrical on the outside, using metal or plastic conduit/boxes?
I'm thinking it would be easier in the future to change or expand electric.
 
Questions:
Are these panels specifically interior?
I don't recall seeing them anywhere in my area.

Couldn't one run the electrical on the outside, using metal or plastic conduit/boxes?
I'm thinking it would be easier in the future to change or expand electric.
Mine are just galvinized roofing sheets. I have wiring both ways as door opener boxes and a light box was already wired before insulating (I have R52 in the ceiling) and then the florescents and future wiring to hoist etc have been run external in conduit and BX cable.
 
Questions:
Are these panels specifically interior?
I don't recall seeing them anywhere in my area.

Couldn't one run the electrical on the outside, using metal or plastic conduit/boxes?
I'm thinking it would be easier in the future to change or expand electric.

they make interior, I used exterior to get the bright white. It would be much easier to run outlets external. A lot of my barn was already wired though when I moved in so I didn’t change it.
 
I've been thinking of doing the same on our garage as well...
hell, everything else is metal-clad out here, after all (it's what the uppity
rednecks use in these parts :) ).
When the garage was built, I installed roll foil-faced insulation on the underside
of the roof and the walls, but it hasn't proved to be of much help, really:
garage15.jpg
She's built like a bomb shelter, though. Design is certified for tornadic level winds.
Told my wife if we ever get a tornado up our holler (hasn't happened...well, ever...but you never know)
that the garage is our tornado shelter. Strap yerself to an 8x8 column and hang on! :)

You folks that have had the metal up in your own garages for a while, I'd like to hear from more of you
about the condensation thing as well. The concrete floor sweats as it is in mine (temperature differential)
and we are in the SE after all - humidity does come into play in the summer.
 
I bought the interior steel for mine as it came in gloss "refrigerator white" in a thinner gauge and was lighter and easier to put up. I could buy it in my desired lengths so I only had two seams in 48 feet. I blew 12" of cellulose right on top 20 years ago. The barn is heated and air conditioned when necessary in the summer. I did pop rivet the laps to tighten up the gaps. White rivets.
Mike
 
I bought the interior steel for mine as it came in gloss "refrigerator white" in a thinner gauge and was lighter and easier to put up. I could buy it in my desired lengths so I only had two seams in 48 feet. I blew 12" of cellulose right on top 20 years ago. The barn is heated and air conditioned when necessary in the summer. I did pop rivet the laps to tighten up the gaps. White rivets.
Mike

White rivet is a great idea!
 
Has anyone installed theirs upside down?

That's the plan for mine...Rather than having the ribs stick down mine would be facing up and the flat areas will be facing down.

I'm only using it on the scissor truss areas so I'll be able to do the install with no seams.

Planning on installing the 2x4 flat led light fixtures (7500 Lumen) under the steel.

R-38 above in the truss's.

It should make for a nice job when it's finished...

0806172006.jpg IMG_1093.JPG
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top