Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger

[watermelon]

that was a good deal for the machine work


watermelon

 

[Kern Dog]

The machinist was a cool guy but it worried me that he might be a hippie-casual I'll get to it when I can sort of guy. I'm glad that I was wrong.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I could rig up a momentary switch that temporarily grounds the yellow terminal on the starter relay for starting the car but that would confuse anyone that ever drove the car but me. I do hope to teach the Wife to drive a stick in THIS car!

Why would it confuse anyone? Most manual trans cars have either a clutch switch or a switch on the trans that senses neutral...

 

[Kern Dog]

I meant something like a doorbell switch somewhere that I'd have to press at the same time I turned the key. It would be a good anti-theft feature though.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Rigging a switch to the clutch pedal wouldn't be difficult but a push button would be fine too... All I'm saying is make it so someone has to think.. I've seen allot of cars damaged through the years cause someone reached in & cranked it up...

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Here, $10 including shipping... Just begging to be adapted to your Charger...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/81-82-83-D...270011&hash=item463caf69a4:g:irEAAOSw9N1VgwKg

 

[Kern Dog]

Thank you. I just checked it out....

Interesting...Only ten bucks and FREE shipping. I bought one!

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I'm not sure if Chrysler mounted that switch at the top of the clutch travel or the bottom, either way it can be adapted... Need to test it to see if it's normally open or normally closed... Either can be made to work... It's cheap & being an OE part it'll be good quality..

 

[Kern Dog]

I should be able to make some mount for under the dash so it is out of sight.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I have no doubt..

 

[Kern Dog]

I'm not sure if Chrysler mounted that switch at the top of the clutch travel or the bottom, either way it can be adapted... Need to test it to see if it's normally open or normally closed... Either can be made to work... It's cheap & being an OE part it'll be good quality..

I'm a bit embarrassed to ask but since electrical stuff isn't my strong suit, How do you test?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I'm a bit embarrassed to ask but since electrical stuff isn't my strong suit, How do you test?

Have you got a meter? Set it to Ohms scale or Diode test & connect the leads to the two wires... If the switch has continuity without actuating the lever it's normally closed... If it reads open but changes state when you move the lever then it's normally open...

 

[Kern Dog]

I have this. I have mainly used it to test battery voltage.
I have fumbled through many things with cars but never had a knack for electrical stuff.

 

[Kern Dog]

Ground your solenoid so it works and reverse switch uses the outer two wires on that 3 wire plug.

With the ebay switch, I guess I could run a ground through the switch and back to the spade terminal on the relay ? Is that a yellow or brown wire, I forget...

 

[moparedtn]

Y'know, I don't think I've ever turned the key on a manual transmissioned anything
without first checking for neutral. Tractors, vehicles, mowers, whatever it was...
It's second nature when I approach any sticked critter to grab the stick and do the neutral
wiggle, oftentimes even when I'm not immediately going to crank it over.

I don't remember a specific incident that "hard lessoned" me on that, so it probably
was my Pop that ingrained that into my young head full of mush.

 

[dadsbee]

With the ebay switch, I guess I could run a ground through the switch and back to the spade terminal on the relay ? Is that a yellow or brown wire, I forget...

Yellow is + from key switch, Brown is the neutral safety ground wire. So if you're going to add a button or pedal switch. A wire from ground, to switch, out of switch to solenoid where the Brown wire is. If you use switch at pedal up, you need a Normally CLOSED (edit) switch that closes when you push the pedal and it comes off the switch (Pedal static holds the switch OPEN, so it can't start). Most limit switches come with both a NO and a NC contact to use.

 

[440+6]

my recommendation is the that you find an original 1970 safety switch and install it.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

my recommendation is the that you find an original 1970 safety switch and install it.

Thats the easy way... But Greg's car isn't even trying to look stock... The original switches sell for $$$ adapting a non-stock stitch is a pretty simple matter, so why bother chasing an original part that a restorer has to have more than Ginger....

Edit
I just spent a few minutes searching for a stock switch... Found one, $300... Found another it's for an A body so it would need to be adapted.. $120.... I think before adapting the A body switch I'd keep the extra $110 in my pocket & adapt the late model switch...

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I have this. I have mainly used it to test battery voltage.
I have fumbled through many things with cars but never had a knack for electrical stuff.

If you use the setting with the arrow pointing to it, connect the leads the meter should beeeep, connect the leads to the wires coming from the switch when the contacts are closed the meter will beep..

 

[watermelon]

go switchless Kern...we didnt need no stinkin switch back in 66 (apparently)

just do the neutral wiggle


watermelon