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Water in all the cylinders?

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Your freeze plugs are shot.
Yup I see that. Funny a few on the back looked new....
 
Looks like it was apart before with the orange silicon. I tore mine all the way down and had Dave put it back together. I could not justify doing it twice if I did it for what he charged to reassemble it to a long block.
Right thats what I am thinking. As much as a 408 would be really neat if this engine is good I am nit one to waste a good thing.
 
Right thats what I am thinking. As much as a 408 would be really neat if this engine is good I am nit one to waste a good thing.
Do you know for certain that’s it’s never been apart before? (Previously decked, heads milled, etc?)
 
Do you know for certain that’s it’s never been apart before? (Previously decked, heads milled, etc?)
Actually I think it was rebuilt. I didn’t mic the bore however. I didn’t see any machine marks on the deck....I did see white writing on the crank.
 
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measure your deck clearance piston at TDC to dec at all 4 corners and report before you take the rods off
let us know the compression height of the pistons- center of the pin to the top
and numbers on the pistons
check the tops for +30 0r anything
could you mic the head gaskets or are they shims?
cheers
 
measure your deck clearance piston at TDC to dec at all 4 corners and report before you take the rods off
let us know the compression height of the pistons- center of the pin to the top
and numbers on the pistons
check the tops for +30 0r anything
could you mic the head gaskets or are they shims?
cheers
Hi Wyr What do you mean by the compression height measurement? Can you elaborate on how to do that one?
 
Hi Wyr What do you mean by the compression height measurement? Can you elaborate on how to do that one?

Center of the Piston Pin to the top of the Piston face. It is needed to calculate compression ratio as is the deck height, the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the block at TDC.
 
There were several CH used in 318's and if the motor was ever rebuilt it's possible that "compensated" cast pistons were installed
"compensated" pistons reduce the compression height (and thus increase the deck clearance) to make up for the extra cu inches the bore gives.
It is however a big looser when performance (any kind from mileage to power) are concerned.
The deck height at all four corners will tell us if the block is "square" and if we are really good if it has been decked already (not likely- but how old of iron are we working on...
 
Center of the Piston Pin to the top of the Piston face. It is needed to calculate compression ratio as is the deck height, the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the block at TDC.
Ah piston height ok got it! Thanks
 
There were several CH used in 318's and if the motor was ever rebuilt it's possible that "compensated" cast pistons were installed
"compensated" pistons reduce the compression height (and thus increase the deck clearance) to make up for the extra cu inches the bore gives.
It is however a big looser when performance (any kind from mileage to power) are concerned.
The deck height at all four corners will tell us if the block is "square" and if we are really good if it has been decked already (not likely- but how old of iron are we working on...
CH? The car is 1970 I bet its the original block but have not yet confirmed from the casting number.
 
Rotate #1 to tdc, slap a straight edge across the bore and measure the gap with feeler gauges. Repeat on #7, 2 and 8. Do you have a dial indicator and degree wheel?
 
Rotate #1 to tdc, slap a straight edge across the bore and measure the gap with feeler gauges. Repeat on #7, 2 and 8. Do you have a dial indicator and degree wheel?
I have a dial indicator abd mag base yes. No degree wheel....
 
I am not all that experienced with rotating assemblies but I would have expected the rotation to be both easier and smoother than it isas i hand rotate it with the breaker bar.
 
I am not all that experienced with rotating assemblies but I would have expected the rotation to be both easier and smoother than it isas i hand rotate it with the breaker bar.

The rings add friction so it shouldn't necessarily be easy. You can get tdc close by using the mag base dial indicator by itself. Rotate one way and then back. At some point it will stop rising, flatten out and then go back down.
 
Just curious. Was the pick-up tube in that position, when you pulled the pan? Or, it's just been moved.
 
Just curious. Was the pick-up tube in that position, when you pulled the pan? Or, it's just been moved.
Hey miller, it was offset when I pulled it. I did check and it was tight. I thought it odd that it was not flat and assumed it should have been. Before start up I did prime the engine and did get a lot of action from it but good eye it was not flat to the bottom of the pan...
 
The rings add friction so it shouldn't necessarily be easy. You can get tdc close by using the mag base dial indicator by itself. Rotate one way and then back. At some point it will stop rising, flatten out and then go back down.
Thanks understood
 
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