• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

What did you do to your Mopar today?

Unseasonably warm Feb for us. Supposed to be 82 today!

@747mopar , is that a ford style shaker scoop?
Funny you should ask, I had originally planned on modifying a Ford style scoop but ditched the idea and made this one from scratch out of fuberglass.
20190207_180349.jpg
 
Nice work.

I like it.

Has six pack and a touch of cobra jet in it.
 
2tfu9i.jpg


Box number 5 went straight past and landed in Australia.....dang it, so close. :lol:
Pilot could have at least tossed it out the window on the way past. :D
 
4 x boxes.....3 x fridge magnets....all American cars...Woo-hoo. Waiting on one more box. Some strut bushes and a-arm cam bolts for my buddy's Valiant, and some small spares. ...pcv valves, grommets, bleed nipples, dip switch, temp probe, hub caps, yoke and spare straps for my 8-3/4 head.....small stuff but always important stuff.

20190212_143741.jpg
 
got a beater to drive for when the ram is down..... got the tunner for the cummins today. ..... talked to the guy i sold my 66 to ... he is selling it back to me for what he gave me + the 600 for shipping so she will be comeing home. ....

00g0g_uTxgNA4zqq_1200x900.jpg 51818535_373546330147504_4385648924795338752_o.jpg
 
what year is the truck?
and motor size?
is it a 5 speed ?,those are the best.

and,lol,you bought yer old car back?
ive done that before,hope it works out for ya.

ps,have you seen the rectrans are posted for 8 grand?
i chuckled
 
what year is the truck?
and motor size?
is it a 5 speed ?,those are the best.

and,lol,you bought yer old car back?
ive done that before,hope it works out for ya.

ps,have you seen the rectrans are posted for 8 grand?
i chuckled
1996 paid 350 bucks for it ....360 .. 518 auto. ... i had a 360 5 speed short box 4X4 a while back .. love the 5 speed

00g0g_uTxgNA4zqq_1200x900.jpg
 
My 68 4-speed Charger that I bought 2 summers ago ran pretty well, or so I thought. The engine had been rebuilt and balanced several years earlier by the previous owner, but after I replaced the 3" exhaust and very loud Blowmaster mufflers with a stock system, I found that there was an engine vibration. So, I took the engine out and apart a few weeks ago and the first thing I saw after the intake was off was that several of the intake valves had oil crust build-up. When the timing cover came off, there was a standard chain and gear set in there plus a hardware store bolt and extra washer holding the cam sprocket on. The big washer on underneath the crank bolt was also a thin hardware store item. The rear main seal cap had a weird die grind in it and two freeze plugs had indications that they were weeping. Fortunately, upon full disassembly, I could see that the cylinders walls and crank journals were good. Keep in mind that this engine was rebuilt "professionally" by the previous owner's shop of choice out in Colorado.

w1.jpg


w2.jpg


w4.jpg


w3.jpg



The heads went off to the machine shop & got a light valve job, refacing and new valve seals. I obtained the correct cam bolt, double roller timing chain set, crank washer and a new billet rear main seal cap, water pump, freeze plugs, gaskets, paint, etc.

The rotating assembly came back from the balance shop yesterday and the guy at the balance shop told me that the weight of the rods and pistons were actually balanced pretty good, but the previous balance shop flubbed up with the crank. He said that when his bob weights were on and they spun it, it was showing that they had to remove metal to outside some of the counterweights. He also said that on the rear of the crankshaft, it showed that metal needed to be added to the left of one of the rod journals where there was nothing, so they took metal from the counterweight opposite that point instead. Most likely, the previous balance shop made up the difference in removing weight from the flywheel with it bolted on, which now explains why the flywheel had so many drill holes in it around the perimeter of it. My guys balanced the crank with the bob weights, and then the balancer, flywheel and pressure plate balanced separately. After that, they bolted it all together and fine tuned it. He did tell me that he could tell that the amount of bob weight that the other guys put on had to have been off a little bit, but how much, I do not know. From other jobs I had done with them years ago, I remember that these guys are very fussy about their work.

You can see the grinding that was done by my guys (Lindskog Balancing) on the crank counterweights. Interesting to note that the other guys added weight (in the factory drilled holes), but Lindskog removed a bunch of weight on that same counterweight as well as some weight on the one next to it.

b1.jpg


b2.jpg



These holes were drilled by Lindskog. The previous shop drilled a bunch of holes in the circumference of the flywheel below the ring gear.

b4.jpg



The pressure plate cover now has a couple of dime sized slugs welded onto it in the 9:00, 12:00 & 1:00 positions.

b3.jpg


I can't blame the previous owner because he brought it to a "reputable" shop for rebuilding. However, it just goes to show that there was some shoddy work done that he didn't know about. Looking through the slips I got with the car, the shop in CO charged $180.00 for the balancing job 5 years ago & my shop charged me $540.00 yesterday. I understand that things were cheaper 5 years ago, but it does go to show that you do get what you pay for. After looking at what was done, I have no doubts that this engine will run very smooth.

While apart, part of my plan was to convert the car from manual steering to power steering which has been done. I sourced most of the needed parts from placing want-ads here & the steering gearbox was sent to Steer & Gear for a rebuild and upgrade.

Special thanks goes out to Fran Blacker for letting me use his transmission tailshaft removing & installation tools, which allowed me to remove & reinstall the tailshaft bushing without pulling the 4-speed transmission apart. That was a HUGE time and effort saver.

:thumbsup:

So, tonight, the plan is to reinstall rods, pistons & oil pan. Tomorrow, the top end will go on & Friday, I'll paint it. )Got to take Thursday off for Valentine's Day.) If all goes well, it's going back in this weekend.
 
My 68 4-speed Charger that I bought 2 summers ago ran pretty well, or so I thought. The engine had been rebuilt and balanced several years earlier by the previous owner, but after I replaced the 3" exhaust and very loud Blowmaster mufflers with a stock system, I found that there was an engine vibration. So, I took the engine out and apart a few weeks ago and the first thing I saw after the intake was off was that several of the intake valves had oil crust build-up. When the timing cover came off, there was a standard chain and gear set in there plus a hardware store bolt and extra washer holding the cam sprocket on. The big washer on underneath the crank bolt was also a thin hardware store item. The rear main seal cap had a weird die grind in it and two freeze plugs had indications that they were weeping. Fortunately, upon full disassembly, I could see that the cylinders walls and crank journals were good. Keep in mind that this engine was rebuilt "professionally" by the previous owner's shop of choice out in Colorado.

View attachment 719207

View attachment 719209

View attachment 719213

View attachment 719210


The heads went off to the machine shop & got a light valve job, refacing and new valve seals. I obtained the correct cam bolt, double roller timing chain set, crank washer and a new billet rear main seal cap, water pump, freeze plugs, gaskets, paint, etc.

The rotating assembly came back from the balance shop yesterday and the guy at the balance shop told me that the weight of the rods and pistons were actually balanced pretty good, but the previous balance shop flubbed up with the crank. He said that when his bob weights were on and they spun it, it was showing that they had to remove metal to outside some of the counterweights. He also said that on the rear of the crankshaft, it showed that metal needed to be added to the left of one of the rod journals where there was nothing, so they took metal from the counterweight opposite that point instead. Most likely, the previous balance shop made up the difference in removing weight from the flywheel with it bolted on, which now explains why the flywheel had so many drill holes in it around the perimeter of it. My guys balanced the crank with the bob weights, and then the balancer, flywheel and pressure plate balanced separately. After that, they bolted it all together and fine tuned it. He did tell me that he could tell that the amount of bob weight that the other guys put on had to have been off a little bit, but how much, I do not know. From other jobs I had done with them years ago, I remember that these guys are very fussy about their work.

You can see the grinding that was done by my guys (Lindskog Balancing) on the crank counterweights. Interesting to note that the other guys added weight (in the factory drilled holes), but Lindskog removed a bunch of weight on that same counterweight as well as some weight on the one next to it.

View attachment 719203

View attachment 719204


These holes were drilled by Lindskog. The previous shop drilled a bunch of holes in the circumference of the flywheel below the ring gear.

View attachment 719205


The pressure plate cover now has a couple of dime sized slugs welded onto it in the 9:00, 12:00 & 1:00 positions.

View attachment 719206

I can't blame the previous owner because he brought it to a "reputable" shop for rebuilding. However, it just goes to show that there was some shoddy work done that he didn't know about. Looking through the slips I got with the car, the shop in CO charged $180.00 for the balancing job 5 years ago & my shop charged me $540.00 yesterday. I understand that things were cheaper 5 years ago, but it does go to show that you do get what you pay for. After looking at what was done, I have no doubts that this engine will run very smooth.

While apart, part of my plan was to convert the car from manual steering to power steering which has been done. I sourced most of the needed parts from placing want-ads here & the steering gearbox was sent to Steer & Gear for a rebuild and upgrade.

Special thanks goes out to Fran Blacker for letting me use his transmission tailshaft removing & installation tools, which allowed me to remove & reinstall the tailshaft bushing without pulling the 4-speed transmission apart. That was a HUGE time and effort saver.

:thumbsup:

So, tonight, the plan is to reinstall rods, pistons & oil pan. Tomorrow, the top end will go on & Friday, I'll paint it. )Got to take Thursday off for Valentine's Day.) If all goes well, it's going back in this weekend.
You need anymore tools? Thanks for your generous reward.
 
Are you kiddin?

I'm buying chocolates and a rose for my car!
 
Received the new timing chain and gears for the '53 flathead in my '55 Plymouth wagon. I wonder how long that Borg Warner gear sat on a shelf waiting for someone to need it.
Plaza Timing Chain.jpg
Plaza Timing Gear.jpg
Plaza Timing Gear (2).jpg
 
before .... after. .... keep messing around and il have a nicer truck and my 66 ....

01313_bQit2GWr0Hm_600x450.jpg 51919764_375488726619931_7844438976491421696_n.jpg
 
Pulled the slick shift trans, blow proof bell housing, scatter shield, clutch, aluminum flywheel, big tube headers, and exhaust. Waiting on a few parts to put new trans, new flywheel, new clutch, stock exhaust manifolds, and new exhaust system back in.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top