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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Just a bit of nosing around....
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Over 2.5 hours of this.. f I hate mice. Can never figure out how they carry acorns. Vacuuming through the tooling holes with hoses of different sizes and pulling **** out with a dental pick as required. All because I noticed an acorn roll by while hammering the hood pad clips in... no other indication of it's existence!
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I was going to post about putting in new vent window channel run ( goes on the front edge of side window glass) and adjusting all window mechanism with P poor directions.... but decided, I bitch too much !!!...............MO
 
I boxed up the Charger's dash cluster and sent it off to have the ammeter converted to a voltmeter and have the speedometer serviced. Maybe once and for all fix that bouncing needle.
 
Went for a drive to the airport, loaded up on 100 LL. Bead-blasted battery tray/hold-downs, painted it flat black. Figured out my RR horn is the wrong one for 1970. It's a RR clone so I'll learn to live with it. And yes, the sound is a little off.
 
Went and talked to the body shop about painting my new Hemi scoop for my 65 coronet. I think I'm going to have him install and cut the openings also, 5.7 Hemi.
 
Went and talked to the body shop about painting my new Hemi scoop for my 65 coronet. I think I'm going to have him install and cut the openings also, 5.7 Hemi.
Great, much easier way back to go with a 6-pak hood with mine in the 70’s lol. Now it’s back to original hood when I quit racing.
 
Removed battery from Satellite. Hit Costco for a new one.
Went to Costco for new battery guy scanned said 1 month out of warranty. I'll warranty anyway, what a guy, $116 yee haa . Put battery all good.
Checked air in tires one 20lbs added air 26lbs.
 
Turn it all you want... it only adjusts the resonance distance so the horn works. Trust me.. been down that road this week. If it's a bogus Jeep horn.. it'll sound like an episode of MASH all day long...
 
Went to Costco for new battery guy scanned said 1 month out of warranty. I'll warranty anyway, what a guy, $116 yee haa . Put battery all good.
Checked air in tires one 20lbs added air 26lbs.
Lucky, don’t want to get into “just out of warranty “ crap. No more Ferds for me ever! Wife said can we buy a Navigator, uh no; it’s a Ferd!
 
Lucky, don’t want to get into “just out of warranty “ crap. No more Ferds for me ever! Wife said can we buy a Navigator, uh no; it’s a Ferd!
Have a Linc towncar as my junker. Liked the car until stuff started breaking. Tie broke one time and ball joint broke while wife was driving me home from a Doc appointment . No more Ferds things like that shouldn't happen.
 
Brother and I swapped a 70 727 trans into my 65 Coronet several weeks. After tracking down all the cables and stuff needed to convert the stock shifter I finally got it all together yesterday. But then it wouldn't shift properly and it ended up getting stuck. Had to disconnect to new shifter and kickdown cables and bracket and the trans pan, then loosen the valve body and the shift mechanism freed up again. Once I figured out where park should be, I have started putting in back together again. Hopefully it'll work this time. I think I can put the new bracket on the bottom of the trans with some spacers (before putting the pan back on again) and get all the cable adjustment set. I came in to look up torque specs for the valve body and trans pan bolts and ran into an old post from Budnicks about it. Thanks for the info Budnicks.
 
Been working all weekend getting my 440 dropped back in,(again), all new engine bay wiring, and all the fun that goes with it....wouldn't crank, no solenoid activating, nothing. Determined the year-old NSS went bad, it worked fine last time I started the engine a few weeks ago. OK no biggy jumped the relay terminal to ground and got starter action. Turned over nice, then just as it was about to fire up the cranking halted abruptly and the starter just clicked...let it rest, tried to get a few hammer taps on it, no dice...just clicks. It's only got a couple thousand miles on it. Unbelievable.
 
Been working all weekend getting my 440 dropped back in,(again), all new engine bay wiring, and all the fun that goes with it....wouldn't crank, no solenoid activating, nothing. Determined the year-old NSS went bad, it worked fine last time I started the engine a few weeks ago. OK no biggy jumped the relay terminal to ground and got starter action. Turned over nice, then just as it was about to fire up the cranking halted abruptly and the starter just clicked...let it rest, tried to get a few hammer taps on it, no dice...just clicks. It's only got a couple thousand miles on it. Unbelievable.
And it just goes on& on! Just thinking about putting all the chrome back on when the Bee comes back from paint/body shop.
 
LOL nevermind! I was too quick to blame the starter.... I did some checking but I didn't follow my own number one rule.... The wiggle test. Problem is a lame crimp connection at the positive terminal. Same problem I had a few years ago, a 'partsmix'positive cable. I know it's a cheap one, but I gave them another chance and they screwed me again... This time it looked to be much better made than the one I bought previously..NOT! That's okay I have a high-press crimper I'll get a new lug from the supply and no worries. Doubt I will ever buy from them again. BUT IT'S ALIVE!! No rear main leaks, no fires, just need to dial in the tune and drive....
 
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