150-200HP nitrous plate shot, on a 6bbl. Dual plane or Single plane intake??

[biomedtechguy]

Nitrous Express makes a Holley 3x2bbl 2 spacer/1 spray plate nitrous oxide system. NOS used to make one, but it was reversed, with the outboard carbs having the spray plates, and the center carb being a spacer, and some have made their own triple spray plate setup for the 6bbl.
So it's been done, and still is in the case of Nitrous Express.

https://www.nitrousexpress.com/holley-2-bbl-tri-power-3-plates-gasoline-50-300hp-30026.asp
I've already got the spray plate, and it's a perfect fit.
My question is how much better is a system like that with a single plane 6bbl intake vs the dual plane Edelbrock/Chrysler 6bbl intake? That could have an impact on whether I choose TrickFlow 240s or 270s.
Thanks!

 

[Ironbuilt]

Build a good, solid motor and enjoy it my friend. Nitrous will just shorten the life of your motor.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Build a good, solid motor and enjoy it my friend. Nitrous will just shorten the life of your motor.

I appreciate the advice, and I have no nitrous experience except that I have seen the high power, multiple kits nitrous engines suffer damage from being pressed so hard, and lean conditions with nitrous or not enough timing retard.
The system I show is rated for 50-300, so 150-200 if applied with appropriate safeguards and used occasionally may not be such a bad thing??

 

[451Mopar]

Nitrous Express makes a Holley 3x2bbl 2 spacer/1 spray plate nitrous oxide system. NOS used to make one, but it was reversed, with the outboard carbs having the spray plates, and the center carb being a spacer, and some have made their own triple spray plate setup for the 6bbl.
So it's been done, and still is in the case of Nitrous Express.
View attachment 872461
https://www.nitrousexpress.com/holley-2-bbl-tri-power-3-plates-gasoline-50-300hp-30026.asp
I've already got the spray plate, and it's a perfect fit.
My question is how much better is a system like that with a single plane 6bbl intake vs the dual plane Edelbrock/Chrysler 6bbl intake? That could have an impact on whether I choose TrickFlow 240s or 270s.
Thanks!

You might want to contact Steve Stracener. His Challanger used to run a 6-pack setup with nitrous before going to the blown Fontana Hemi.
http://www.laststarfighter.com/

 

[slepr1]

so 150-200 if applied with appropriate safeguards and used occasionally may not be such a bad thing??

I have no experience running nitrous but have a new kit installed and ready to go. Just waiting for the new rebuild to finish its break in. I built the engine for nitrous. I'm set up for a 100hp shot to start with. I might go up to 150 after testing the 100. I heard that staying 150 or lower is the safest for longevity of an engine (not sure how accurate). I don't plan on using it that much. I always wanted to know what nitrous is like. I've had turbos and superchargers before.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Well, it has always been reported that when you make OVER 750HP with a 2-Bolt Main stock wedge block you are just asking to blow the bottom end out....so....if you motor makes, lets say, even if your motor only makes 650HP (which is very easily done) and you spray it for another 200HP you are right on the edge of blowing out the bottom end. There are NO safeguards for the block having only 2 bolts on the mains.
The motor in my old Coronet made right at 750HP and was fitted with a Steel Billet Girdle and Steel Billet Main Caps and there was no way that I would trust the block to live with anymore than that 750HP.
Just my friendly input for your consideration.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I built the engine for nitrous. I'm set up for a 100hp shot to start with. I might go up to 150 after testing the 100. I heard that staying 150 or lower is the safest for longevity

Agree to all of that. There are already a few unique issues with the 6bbl that require a safety measure to prevent problems when the button is pressed.
The 6bbl outboard carbs, for about a second, go lean when they tip in because of no accelerator pump, so I would incorporate a 1 second delay on activation of the WOT switch, to keep the nitrous and fuel from spraying during that 1 second lean condition. I would prefer the timing retard to also come in automatically when the system is either activated, or preferably when it is triggered to spray. A RPM window switch is probably a good idea, to be sure that the engine is above a preset RPM level for the juice to spray. I don't see any problem with doing a single "150" HP spray plate on the center carb, unless Nitrous Express suggests using 2 plates on the outboard carbs setup to deliver "75" HP x 2 for "150" HP total.
Based on our chat when I ordered the one 2bbl spray plate, they would probably prefer the one "150" HP center carb plate only, for velocity of the nitrous and fuel to be delivered reliably. My understanding from that conversation was if you go too low in desired output vs the inherent range of the hardware, the delivery can get sketchy by not atomizing as well as it should.
If I wind up at 650HP, a 150 shot would theoretically take me to 800HP or a 23% increase in power.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Well, it has always been reported that when you make OVER 750HP with a 2-Bolt Main stock wedge block you are just asking to blow the bottom end out....so....if you motor makes, lets say, even if your motor only makes 650HP (which is very easily done) and you spray it for another 200HP you are right on the edge of blowing out the bottom end. There are NO safeguards for the block having only 2 bolts on the mains.
The motor in my old Coronet made right at 750HP and was fitted with a Steel Billet Girdle and Steel Billet Main Caps and there was no way that I would trust the block to live with anymore than that 750HP.
Just my friendly input for your consideration.

Thanks a lot Mike.
IQ52 (Jim) and I have also been chatting about this.
This topic in particular is one YOU are especially qualified to help with:
What is driving a Roadrunner with that kind of power like?!
I haven't been behind the wheel of a 650HP/TQ B-Body! I may find that even with the QA1 K-member and front suspension, Caltracs full rear suspension system, and double adjustable Viking shocks all around that planting the gas brings about an experience as close to death as I care to get. On the other hand, I've been doing donuts, power slides, and competitive driving since I was 16, so that's 41 years! I believe as long as I get all of that stuff dialed in, and I have become a better driver as well, that I am likely to find myself wanting more, as long as the foundational equipment I have is up to "more", and that a 150 shot of gas would be the best way of getting there. I also may find that hitting that button may take me to a speed that requires a LOT of additional safety equipment??
My pistons are going to be forged aluminum anyway, and I don't think that making sure they are "up to" handling a 150-200HP shot of properly delivered nitrous would cost much or any more??
What is the difference between top quality forged aluminum pistons vs the same thing "prepped" for a 200HP shot of spray?
Here's the other side: If I find the power level my build attains is all I want, need, or care to handle, and I never go beyond that, I still have the peace of mind of a bulletproof block that is WELL within its power handling capabilities vs running the upper edge of where it can live, and the benefits of saving all of that weight, and the WOW factor of having an aluminum block when I pop the hood to show my car!
Thanks to all for helping me out with this!

 

[Dodge 330]

Build a good, solid motor and enjoy it my friend. Nitrous will just shorten the life of your motor.

Horseshit! Built right and with a proper tune you won't have any issues!

I've been running a 200 shot on my 600 hp naturally aspirated 505. It's a ball to drive!

Pull timing, go colder on plugs and gap the rings a little more so they don't butt together. I followed Nitrous Express's recommendations to the T and it works great.

One word of advice: Do a dedicated, supplemental fuel system for the nitrous. I did a JAZ Jr Dragster fuel cell and small 5 psi electric pump that deadheads to the fuel solenoid. Works great!

 

[biomedtechguy]

gap the rings a little more so they don't butt together.

If I'm not sure if I would ever add nitrous, how big of a difference is this one step? All of the rest is "bolt on" timing, plugs, etc. The ring gap though...??

Do a dedicated, supplemental fuel system for the nitrous. I did a JAZ Jr Dragster fuel cell and small 5 psi electric pump that deadheads to the fuel solenoid. Works great

I have already posted the S.A.F.E fuel system and raved about what a great idea it is.

You put together a "home made" version, and YES! I agree! You can even use AVGas or race fuel in that stand alone tank for a boost in octane when you hit the spray!
Thanks for posting!!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nex-15004

 

[Mike Gaines]

If you go with the aluminum block it will have 4 bolt mains so go for it....no worries on HP.

 

[JackpotJim]

My advice on adding nitrous is don't go over a 150 shot till you know your install is working perfect. After that don't go over 175 shot unless your motor is built to use nitrous. Don't activate under 2500 rpm. A low fuel pressure deactivation switch is a great idea unless you have 100% faith in your fuel set up. Set it up with a driver activated button and spend $125.00 and get a nitrous programer which will allows you to activate the shot over a half second to 4 second time frame. As mentioned above follow the manufacturer's recommendations on plugs and timing. If you have a MSD or ignition box that has a timing retard function use it. and yes, nitrous is a riot.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I will be adding nitrous as well but just for it's intercooling ability. I will lower my IAT by over 100*. Also thinkin 1 or 2 fogger nozzles into my 1 inch spacer under the cars. I bought a pair of spray bar plates but the throttle blade hits them. So it's parimeter plates or fogger nozles into the spacers..............

 

[MiradaMegaCab]

Al, why not run this?

 

[bearman]

Go fast is came a long ways and engine timing and the time release of each fogger is most important to a fast ride. The best I can can advise is read and build your system first on the table so you have everything correct. Make sure your program is correct and it also has a manual shut down or overide in case of issues. But I would think that with your setup and the hp you will have you should just kick *** on the street.

 

[biomedtechguy]

View attachment 873494
Al, why not run this?

Actually I have a picture of what I believe is the factory aluminum 6bbl intake plumbed in a similar manner.

I was told at Carlisle, albeit a few years ago, that the guy who had a booth there could hook me up with the guy who founded NOS, and he would make a custom wet nitrous injection system for me using my intake.

 

[bearman]

Sweet looking setup but unless you are able to hide the rest of the system why worry if everyone can see it. Would not want to pull intake off all the time. Just my two cents. Have a great Thanksgiving

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

View attachment 873494
Al, why not run this?

My throttle blade could hit........Fogger nozels should work,just have to figure out my own tune.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Actually I have a picture of what I believe is the factory aluminum 6bbl intake plumbed in a similar manner.
View attachment 873501
I was told at Carlisle, albeit a few years ago, that the guy who had a booth there could hook me up with the guy who founded NOS, and he would make a custom wet nitrous injection system for me using my intake.

Van you change jets without removing the inatke!! Big difference!

 

[MiradaMegaCab]

BioMedTechGuy,
I’m not familiar with a Six Pack set up but with your current single nitrous plate I’d recommend a single plane intake manifold.
Is the carb linkage progressive?
It’s my understanding that the center carb goes WOT and the outboard carbs open shortly after by vacuum.
If so, put your micro switch on the outboard carb. I might be wrong with the above info as I’m not experienced on the Six Packs.

With a 150 shot I’d pull 4 degrees of timing, use a colder non projected tip spark plug with a tight gap.

I run a NOS Cheater System and have 8” fuel solenoid to plate braided fuel line. I use a longer 16” braided line from the Nitrous solenoid to plate line. The extra N2O line length “theoretically” should let the fuel traveling at a slow 6PSI hit the plate at the same time as the hi speed 1000PSI of N2O. I only do this on shots of 150 and above......