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Sweet that is just sweet.
BIO,that plate must have been fabbed,it's easy to do. I do like how it's painted and looks like it belongs there
Thanks @HEMI-ITIS Dodge 330 pops in, drops a couple of great pix, and then disappears when I immediately ask about the valley pan rear hold down bracket that he mounted the solenoids to... Anyway, yes! It is so stealthy I had to ask if that was a factory piece! I only have the rectangular strip of metal there. I wasn't really thinking about concealing the nitrous oxide system, BUT since I am going to be "picking up" some races at the track, at car shows, at Cruisin the Coast, and who knows where else, it would be nice and possibly profitable to be able to pop the hood for a quick "inspection" by a competitor and for them NOT to know it's on the spray!
A set of these will eliminate that lean tip in condition concern. I thought about spraying mine but she needs some suspension and if I was smart safety upgrades..
Those are the 3 x 500 CFM "Direct Connection/Mopar Performance" mechanically actuated carbs I presume? I wonder how much or if all of the Promax parts I got for the factory 2bbl carbs would swap over: Jetable outboard carb billet metering plates? Center carb metering block. Do the outboard carbs have metering blocks? Angled idle mixture screws in the base of the rear outboard carb, but if the ones you have have metering blocks that answers that question. No....I think if I do ANYTHING once I have given my current Promax modded Holley carbs the "good ol' college try" that the F&B 3x2 EFI direct port injection system is the only other route.
bio could you put them inside the air cleaner or do you take it off when racing. You can just make a plate like 33 did. Just a thought
No, these are very different from the factory carbs, no interchangeable parts. Outboards actually flow better than the vacuum carbs.
Air cleaner and top have always been on.
EFI & NOS make a wonderfull couple Wish I could afford EFI, Cost is out of my budget,,,plus I would need a tuner to follow me around with a laptop And 330,,,,spends too much time in YB!
Fabricated. I have a neighbor that builds streetrods. I dream stuff up and he makes it happen. Knocked this little plate out in about 15 minutes.
Here is a pic of the plate by itself:
Here is a fresh air piece we made for the Max Wedge scooped hood I have (2 hoods). The scoop ripped off at 130 mph and flew higher than the light poles at the track so I went back to a flat hood....for now... This was a pizza pan from the kitchen aisle at Wal-Mart.
THANKS! and I saw you post a few pix on another Mopar forum of your nitrous solenoid mounting "solution". Very nicely hidden too, running the line up by the alternator, and then sneaking it past the distributor cap and under the intake manifold. I have that big beautiful Air Grabber air filter base, and that can hide a LOT!
Aluminum of course??
I installed a twin plate big shot back in '99.Every time I hit that button I found another weak link.The worst was a piston that had a skinny dome! Now I will try again for an intercooler.Might just put a fogger nozzle in each carb spacer plate. Will lower the IAT by over 100*
I'm so jealous to have a blower and some juice.
The last picture was with a tunnel ram with the 2 plates.When I installed the blower I just left the N2O system on. Never hit the button with the blower and that was over 20 years ago. Now I need to intercool to get my IAT down and the thought that N2O will lower the temps over 100*.That would give me temps around 50 to 70*even in the heat of summer
No, not in this case. Used what we had. And a few ounces wasn't going to matter.
The inner cooler will be placed right under the blower correct. If this is the case consider running your fuel line also in the inner cooler to drop that temp down. Next question do they make a ceramic piston yet.