A few observations from the links that my friend IQ52 provided:
I have read a couple of different people express concerns about the strength of the factory RB block in the horsepower range they have or want to have. I have noted, again, that a lot of people talk about the 400B block having a lower deck height to aid clearance of the carbs and intake to the hood. (I'm not interested in a B block, but the comments and concerns, along with comments about the weight of aftermarket iron blocks vs aluminum, how the iron blocks ADD weight over the factory block, and the aluminum block significantly reduces weight over the front end and because the aluminum block is much lighter, it aids weight transfer to the rear wheels). I see a LOT of people using the dual plane Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake like I have, even with higher RPMs (up to 7k) AND stroker motors.
The 2 main reasons why I was looking for a single plane 3x2 compatible intake is flow, so as to not restrict the performance of a 540 cu in motor, and I had suggested I may want to be able to have a 150 shot spray plate nitrous system available as an "oh ****" button if I'm all in, hooked up and rolling down the 1320, and find myself falling behind, so I could maybe turn a L into a W. Now I think that maybe added power may push me into breakage, but Im leaving the door open to the possibility of having that available, but it seems like the consensus is that nitrous + dual plane intake is a recipe for disaster?
Hughes seems to really be on top of making the 6bbl work, and porting the Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake to maximize its performance capabilities.
I will say that one of the posts I read emphasized that if a car is 70% street use, 30% track use, a dual plane is the best choice. Even at an even split use at 50/50 street/strip, they say that the single plane is a tough choice. Drivability is super important to me, and my track use percentage is abysmal, but that's mainly because of my traction problems and the pile of parts, equipment, and systems I have that need to be installed, many (like my front suspension system and 4 wheel disc brakes) that are SAFETY RELATED.
Once I get the brakes and front suspension systems installed, and the line lock is part of that, I may take another few trips down the track to check out the line lock, and any adjustments to the front suspension (I have 18 way adjustable Viking front shocks that I have yet to try tweaking for better front end lift and weight transfer) I expect to disconnect the front sway bar at the track so as to not have it prevent front suspension travel.
The defining moment right now that will have me making way more track trips on Test and Tune night is the rear suspension (Calvert split mono leaf springs, AFTCO or Calvert sliders, Assassin traction bars, and since I have them on the front I'll get Viking double adjustable shocks for the rear) and hydraulic T.O. bearing (already purchased the Hydramax) with the HitMaster launch control system. Chrome molly driveshaft, and possibly a dual disc clutch setup if the manufacturer or I find my current street/strip clutch isn't up to handling the slippage of the HitMaster.
So I've got a LOT to do before a build happens, but I want to make progress on a build or I'm going to die having never got it done.
that you might beat up on me, 
but I've got some reading to do.
