What did you do to your Mopar today?

[Darter6]

Jetted the Edelbrock single 4 bbl on the Hemi,no more off idle stumble. Pulled the driveshaft found a tight rear u-joint.Pulled it apart and it was smooth and well lubed.Put it back together and still didn't like how it was.Gonna replace it.Up in the air about pulling the 4.10's for 3.23's.
On the 63 project painted some engine brackets and blades of the clutch fan. Engine is done.

Fitting the radiator to see if I need to modify anything before putting the engine and trans in.Gonna be a daily driver.

 

[mmissile]

Picked-up a few of the body-color trim pieces from my painter, then went and picked up the powder-coated parts. Installed hood scoop-inserts and fender-mounted turn signals. Waiting on parts......

 

[Cranky]

Sitin here in the shop looking at it yet again.....but at least I did assemble a Critter Nation cage without any distructions a bit ago

 

[Darter6]

Waiting for my new U-joints that will be here tomorrow.Played with the 65 again.Still have a bad driveline vibration 45 to 60 mph. Messed with leaf spring shims, pulled out 2* shims and came up rear yoke flange 5 1/2* up and transmission output yoke 3 1/2* down. That leaves me with a 2* difference. Still got a vibration. Took it on a 1&1/2 mile down grade 6% and put it in neutral it is still there.So It's gotta be in the shaft.After installing the new U joints,and if the problem is still there should I go with a 4* shim to drop the rear yoke down to 1 1/2* up ? This is driving me crazy. If I can maybe shim the tranny up to 0* ? No more racing for this one, it's street only from now on.

 

[BDF6]

I found this in my driveway

 

[moobster]

Waiting for my new U-joints that will be here tomorrow.Played with the 65 again.Still have a bad driveline vibration 45 to 60 mph. Messed with leaf spring shims, pulled out 2* shims and came up rear yoke flange 5 1/2* up and transmission output yoke 3 1/2* down. That leaves me with a 2* difference. Still got a vibration. Took it on a 1&1/2 mile down grade 6% and put it in neutral it is still there.So It's gotta be in the shaft.After installing the new U joints,and if the problem is still there should I go with a 4* shim to drop the rear yoke down to 1 1/2* up ? This is driving me crazy. If I can maybe shim the tranny up to 0* ? No more racing for this one, it's street only from now on.

The Direct Connection Bible says drive shaft should be down 1.5* from transmission and pinion should be 5 to 7* nose down to driveshaft.

 

[Fran Blacker]

After 11 days and no garage time pulled axles and 4.10 chuck today. Left chuck hanging to drain into housing. Looked to see if chinesium drums were dragging on backing plates. Had a sound like brakes dragging coming from rear, no obvious spots on backing plates. I'll put original drums on and see if it goes away. Could be new b shoes making the noise?

 

[Larrry B.]

Beautiful day outside, took the RR for a fast cruise around the neighborhood again.

I think I've figured out the best setting for my Hotchkis adjustable shocks: 12 points firm on the front & 0 on the rear.
Nice and tight with enough bounce to still feel pretty comfortable on city streets.

 

[biomedtechguy]

chinesium drums

 

[Fran Blacker]

Dumped 4.10 chuck in 5 gallon bucket. Cleaned off old gasket and dropped in 3.23 sure-grip chuck. Replaced new rubber brake hose I F$%ked with another new one. Now see if I can put it in the car without pulling apart. (see pic)

 

[Cranky]

The Direct Connection Bible says drive shaft should be down 1.5* from transmission and pinion should be 5 to 7* nose down to driveshaft.

Are you racing it? 5 to 7 iirc is for racing but high performance beating is close to that.....

View attachment 686025 View attachment 686027 View attachment 686029 View attachment 686030 View attachment 686031 View attachment 686032 Dumped 4.10 chuck in 5 gallon bucket. Cleaned off old gasket and dropped in 3.23 sure-grip chuck. Replaced new rubber brake hose I F$%ked with another new one. Now see if I can put it in the car without pulling apart. (see pic)

Man, it's only 80 lbs! Kaint ya handle that without a hoist?? Me either anymore lol

 

[Fran Blacker]

Are you racing it? 5 to 7 iirc is for racing but high performance beating is close to that.....

Man, it's only 80 lbs! Kaint ya handle that without a hoist?? Me either anymore lol

Those days are OVER. Pulled housing out of car, old bee got on me for that. My ache'n ankle and my numb ache'n feet, so keeping balance is another problem.

 

[oldbee]

Those days are OVER. Pulled housing out of car, old bee got on me for that. My achen ankle and my numb achen feet, so keeping balance is another problem.

As kerndog would say- think it’s achin’ ..lol

 

[conv67bdere]

Stuck in the darn trunk again . . . trying to get the little things knocked out and out of the way . . .

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Stuck in the darn trunk again . . . trying to get the little things knocked out and out of the way . . .

View attachment 686116

Out of the way??? More like knocked it outta the PARK!! Very nice!

 

[furryfrog]

After 11 days and no garage time pulled axles and 4.10 chuck today. Left chuck hanging to drain into housing. Looked to see if chinesium drums were dragging on backing plates. Had a sound like brakes dragging coming from rear, no obvious spots on backing plates. I'll put original drums on and see if it goes away. Could be new b shoes making the noise?

Had a problem like this that sounds similar to my car. One rear brake dragged on one spot of rotation. When I adjusted the shoes to make it go away the brake pedal was almost out of travel and the braking suffered. It turned out the backing plate was not centered and was a bit off I guess. I loosened the 4 bolts to give it some play, stepped on the brakes, tightened the 4 bolts and everything is good now. I guess there was just enough wiggle room on those 4 bolts to create the problem I had. Showed up after swapping in an 8 3/4 in my car.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Had a problem like this that sounds similar to my car. One rear brake dragged on one spot of rotation. When I adjusted the shoes to make it go away the brake pedal was almost out of travel and the braking suffered. It turned out the backing plate was not centered and was a bit off I guess. I loosened the 4 bolts to give it some play, stepped on the brakes, tightened the 4 bolts and everything is good now. I guess there was just enough wiggle room on those 4 bolts to create the problem I had. Showed up after swapping in an 8 3/4 in my car.

Had the drums cut .005 to make sure they were round. Going to look more for scraping spots the lip of backing plate could hitting someplace. Backed off shoes 2 clicks on manual adjusters. Probably wasted time on that if I go back to my cut original drums. Would like to get it together before the roads get that ice melt rust the car sludge on the road to try it out.

 

[CoronetDarter]

Installed my refurbed warranty TBI from FiTech. A little background - bought the Gen I when it came out in summer 2015, installed it on the Coronet during the resto. Using the Fuel Command Center for fuel delivery. About a month ago the engine died just driving down the road. Started it up, made it home. But the engine kept starting and dying. Eventually the FiTech wouldn't prime at 'Run', no power, so pulled out the voltmeter and traced 12+ volts to the connector. Sent the unit back to FiTech. The sent me a current generation refurb back within a week. Among other upgrades since 2015, they went from a 6 pin to a 4+2 pin connector but they didn't send me a new harness. Another call/email, and week later a new harness arrived. Spent the weekend rewiring the connectors and redoing the linkage.


A couple of positive takeaways. Back in 2015 I went with the Lokar throttle cable and kickdown cable. The Lokar throttle bracket was designed for Holley linkages, but it was way cantilevered out from the FiTech and would flex at WOT. Since then, Lokar has released a bracket specific to FiTech and it's a huge improvement. Much beefier design, smaller bracket, and has two attachment points. No flex. The other positive out of this is that my WOT wasn't adjusted correctly; mashing the pedal to the floor still had about 1/8" travel at the linkage. Got that dialed in today, along with the kickdown adjustment.

[
Here's the part number of the new FiTech bracket. The springs are the same but the new ones have a shorter throw [bottom].

A

 

[mmissile]

Getting closer by the day. Received tail emblem yesterday, and waiting on the bumper plating. I also made ground-wires for the fender-mounted turn-signals.

 

[dadsbee]

Finally ready to put the nose back on my Bee. Finished up the Ramcharger air box install today, that I totally rebuilt from it's broken parts over the past couple of weeks.