Swapping a Borgeson steering box in a 1970 Charger

[Kern Dog]

Mine slipped on just fine. I'm so used to having trouble with the factory coupler being difficult to engage and slide down, the Bergman unit just fit right. No slop at all.

 

[JR_Charger]

Sounds like mine has an issue.

How do you keep the steering box from rotating when tightening the big nut that holds the Pitman Arm on?

How does the rubber boot go on? Over the whole nut and washer?

 

[Kern Dog]

Sounds like mine has an issue.

How do you keep the steering box from rotating when tightening the big nut that holds the Pitman Arm on?

How does the rubber boot go on? Over the whole nut and washer?

I tightened the pitman arm nut after the column was in and locked. 1970 model and newer have locking steering columns.
Even without it, an impact wrench makes quick work of tightening the nut.
The boot is actually neoprene. The coupler has to be off the column first to slide the boot on. I don't recall what lubricant that I used to allow it to slide easier. It was probably WD-40.

 

[JR_Charger]

The boot I'm referring to is not the one on the column/steering coupler. My steering box came with one that appears to go over the nut that holds the Pitman arm on, but the instructions don't mention it and I've never seen one installed before.

Just for fun I tried the Borgeson steering coupler, and it slid on easy too and had a bit of wiggle in it (not as much as the Bergman). I guess the setscrew must take up the slack. I'm hesitant to press that set screw down into the teeth of the steering box output shaft, but it looks like that's how it's supposed to be done.

The scary thing about the Borgeson coupler is how it only contacts about half of the output shaft -

The Bergman coupler contacts the whole thing, and is closed on the end. Borgeson says their coupler doesn't pass hydralic noise up into the cabin though. Does the Bergman coupler pass hydraulic noise in? I could do without that. I need to be able to hear the slap of all the poly I've got in my new suspension.

 

[Kern Dog]

I have had none of the HISS sounds that I've heard some people mention.
Seriously, there have been ZERO complaints with this unit. Peter Bergman puts together a nice kit.
There are times when I like to fabricate stuff or go my own way. I've made brackets, modified sway bars, made frame connectors and torque boxes too. When a company like BAC sells a quality product at a fair price, I feel good spending my money with them.

 

[70ChargerRT]

What little I have drove my car the only problem I ever had with Peters kit was at idle my car didn’t want to steer. He recommended that I take out a couple of the washers out of the power steering pump to give it more pressure. I have taken the washers out but have not since drove my car. Hopefully I’ll find out in a month or 2.

 

[Kern Dog]

The washer shim trick was only relevant to the Saginaw pump and stock Chrysler steering box. The Borgeson unit requires more pressure.

 

[70ChargerRT]

The washer shim trick was only relevant to the Saginaw pump and stock Chrysler steering box. The Borgeson unit requires more pressure.

Yeah I bought the complete kit off of Peter. Matching PS pump and everything. I thought it would be ready to go but it still needed shims taken out of it.

 

[JR_Charger]

I tightened the pitman arm nut after the column was in and locked. 1970 model and newer have locking steering columns.
Even without it, an impact wrench makes quick work of tightening the nut.

I hope the impact doesn't damage anything inside the steering box, because that's what I used. I can't imagine pro mechanics do this job with a wrench.

Here it is with it's cute little bootie -

The bootie doesn't cover the end threads, and it doesn't seal up tight on the nut, but it looks like it's there to do something.

Is there anything special about the cotter pins on the other end of the pitman arm and idler arm? One of mine has snuck off.

Do you have the QA1 K member? If so, is your idler arm loose in the vertical? The idler arm bracket in my QA1 mount is about 3/32"s taller than the one on the factor k member.

 

[Kern Dog]

I have a stock K member with some reinforcements.
The idler mount allows vertical slop between the tabs and the idler arm sleeve. I slipped a washer in to fill the gap.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I hope the impact doesn't damage anything inside the steering box, because that's what I used. I can't imagine pro mechanics do this job with a wrench.

Here it is with it's cute little bootie -

View attachment 1411892

The bootie doesn't cover the end threads, and it doesn't seal up tight on the nut, but it looks like it's there to do something.

Is there anything special about the cotter pins on the other end of the pitman arm and idler arm? One of mine has snuck off.

Do you have the QA1 K member? If so, is your idler arm loose in the vertical? The idler arm bracket in my QA1 mount is about 3/32"s taller than the one on the factor k member.

Your cute little bootie is in the wrong place... It doesn't protect the nut... It keeps debris out of the lower seal on the steering box.. It goes above the pitman arm...

 

[Kern Dog]

 

[JR_Charger]

Your cute little bootie is in the wrong place... It doesn't protect the nut... It keeps debris out of the lower seal on the steering box.. It goes above the pitman arm...

Well that's why I asked earlier, but it's not too late to fix it.

 

[JR_Charger]

While I've got the steering column partially out, is there anything worth addressing, from the preventative maintenance point of view? The last time I drove it, it was fine, other than the turn signal switch should be changed. That sounds like it can be done from inside the car with the column mounted, but I haven't looked into it yet.